Alaska 2021 Day 5-8

 May 11, 2021

 

With the extra distance run yesterday, we were able to delay our departure from Codville Lagoon until 0700. The sun was shining and the reflections of the rock walls in the water made it look like totem poles laid on their side.  Exiting the narrow entrance into the lagoon, the rock charted on some charts was clearly visible, making it important to favor the south side of the channel on entry and exit.

 

Heading straight across Fitz Hugh Sound into Lama Passage, we soon passed the town of Bella Bella, where we had cell phone reception for about one hour as we headed into Seaforth Channel.  The seas were relatively calm in Milbanke Sound as we approached Ivory Island Lighthouse, so we headed out into Milbanke Sound and around into Finlayson Channel rather than the calmer alternative of Reid Passage, a longer route by about 8 NM.

 

Dodging a lot of logs in the water we were still making good time, so rather than arrive in Bottleneck Inlet early in the day, in consultation with the crew of Rendezvous, we altered the plan and headed directly for Princess Royal Channel.  The tidal currents in Princess Royal Channel were favorable until reaching the intersection with Heikish Narrows, and then were adverse by up to two knots for the remainder of the journey.  Arriving at Green Spit in Khutze Inlet at 1700, having covered 82 NM, we anchored on the spit just as the rain began.

 

After a delicious southwest chicken salad, we watched another movie and prepared for another long day completing our transit of Princess Royal Channel and then entering Grenville Channel.

 

We have now covered about 460 NM, with less than 200 NM left before arriving in Ketchikan on Friday.

 

 

May 12, 2021

 

After a windy and rainy night anchored on Green Spit at the entrance to Khutze Inlet, we awoke to partly cloudy skies and calm winds.  Departing at 0703 we headed further up Princess Royal Channel and swung by the abandoned cannery site of Butedale.  Most of the buildings have been torn down and there is a newer looking dock several hundred feet long.  There was no sign of activity and the site looked much as it did when we passed in 2019.

 

Continuing our journey up Princess Royal Channel we passed around Gribbell Island towards Grenville Channel.  Heading into Grenville Channel the wind picked up out of the NW and the chop built as we picked up a nice boost from the northbound flood tide, hitting more than 10 knots across the bottom.  At Klewnuggit Inlet, the tidal currents change and we bucked the south flowing flood tide until we reached a new (to us) anchorage at Kumealon Island Anchorage.

 

The anchorage is small and there is room for only a few vessels, especially since there were two crab pots right in the middle of the preferred anchorage locations.  Nonetheless, both Spirit and Rendezvous found places to set the anchor in 15 knot NW winds and mostly sunny skies and settled in for the final push to US waters tomorrow.

 

May 13, 2021

 

We set our departure for 0600 and beat that by 5 minutes.  Re-entering Grenville Channel under partly cloudy skies and calm winds we continued north, expecting a boost from the last of the ebb tide.  The surface  outflow from the Skeena River overpowered the ebb tide in several places around Kennedy Island.  Clearing the top of Grenville Channel we entered Chatham Strait and set a course for Green Island lighthouse.  The swell from offshore was 2-3 feet until in the lee of Dundas Island, then it was nearly flat calm until reaching Green Island, where we started to pick up the swell coming in Dixon Entrance.

 

When we had cell service, we checked in with US Customs and Border Protection, who advised us to use the CBP Roam App on our smartphones to clear.  CPB also approved our stop in Foggy Bay, which the believed should be empty based on call from other vessels to use Foggy Bay.  Our AIS however showed it was full.

 

The App is straightforward to use, scanning in our travel documents and entering the ship information and arrival details.  The only frustration was that the App would not actually send the data to CPB until our phones showed we were across the border.  Cell phone service is spotty across Dixon Entrance which added to the frustration.  Finally, the data was accepted and a few minutes later we received our clearance number and were free to stop anywhere, not just Foggy Bay.

 

Entering Foggy Bay inner anchorage, our AIS was correct, there were already 7 vessels, six of them a Grand Banks flotilla from NW Explorations.  We tried several spots to anchor, but with the tidal range overnight we felt the clearances were inadequate, so we departed and ended up in Bullhead Cove, just six NM further up the mainland.  Bullhead Cove turned out to be a great anchorage, with a straightforward entrance, well sheltered from southerly winds and good holding in 50-60 feet of water.   Since both  Rendezvous and Spirit were cleared, we could now raft up and enjoyed a potluck meal together as we planned the final push into Ketchikan.   

May 14, 2021

We had been informed that there was now only one fuel dock in Ketchikan and waits for fuel could be hours.  We also knew when the flotilla in Foggy Bay was leaving based on their radio traffic, so we made sure we were going to be well ahead of those boats.  The plan worked, sort of.  We were passed by a large yacht who arrived at the fuel dock ahead of us, so we waited about one hour, hovering off the dock waiting for our turn.

 

After taking on 590 gallons of diesel fuel we headed to our destination, Ketchikan Moorage, a small private facility on Tongass Narrows halfway between downtown and Bar Harbor.  We enjoyed a celebration dinner at Oceanview Restaurant, a combination Mexican and Italian place just a few blocks away.  We had arranged a rental car which made it easier for Miriam to get around town.  Ketchikan has experienced a surge in Covid-19 cases recently and many of the restaurants have reverted to takeout only until the outbreak is under control.  One small cruise ship also bypassed Ketchikan yesterday due to the outbreak.  We will stay masked up while we are here.

 

Spirit has travelled 638 nautical miles since leaving Anacortes, putting 73.5 hours on the main engine and 55 hours on the generator.

 

We will spend several days in Ketchikan doing maintenance before heading to the Behm Canal and Misty Fjords.

Alalska 2021 Day 4

 Spirit Log Day 4

 

May 10, 2021

 

We planned a 0600 departure from Allison Harbour to cross Cape Caution before the afternoon westerlies piped up.  Arising at 0530, we were greeted by dense fog, but light winds.  Departing at slow speed with the automatic fog signal blowing every 2 minutes, we inched out the entrance.  The fog began to lift and we discovered clear skies over the Strait of Georgia.  The swell was running at 1.6 meters, or about 5 feet, with a 2 foot wind chop from the west.  We cleared Cape Caution at 0745 and passed behind Egg Island at 0835.  Not the best sea conditions, but far from the worst.

 

Making good time, especially as the seas calmed entering Fitz Hugh sound, we passed by our initial anchorage location, Green Island.  Proceeding up Fitz Hugh we entered Codville Lagoon and anchored under sunny skies at 1500, having covered another 73 NM today.

 

With the early arrival, we relaxed and enjoyed a movie night, watching “First Man” and snacking on popcorn.

 

 

Alaska 2021 Day 2-3

 May 8, 2021

Spirit Log Day 2

 

As expected, the winds abated after sundown and shifted back to northwest.  About 0330 the winds died completely, but the residual low swell caused the fishing boat to start banging against the fenders, waking us up.  Seeing nothing amiss it was back to bed until about 0700.

 

Our day today takes us through Seymour Narrows to Thurston Bay.  We need to hit high slack current at Seymour Narrows, so the 48 NM run to the narrows allowed us to delay our departure until 0900, under overcast skies and almost no wind in Tribune Bay.  Rendezvous is following us about ½ mile astern.

 

Overnight our anchor light failed, so we will have to replace when we get to Ketchikan.  Turns out that even LED lights have finite lifespans.  The light is located at the top of the mast in a difficult location and we will have to wait until Ketchikan to replace it, since Patrick discovered that there was no spare on board.

 

The Strait of Georgia was calm with light winds as we headed further northwest to Campbell River, just this side of Seymour Narrows.  The last of the flood tide flowing south through Discovery Passage slowed us down to less than 4 knots at times.  Even so, we arrived at 1600, 37 minutes ahead of high slack, our target.  The current was very manageable so we proceeded through the narrows and entered Johnstone Strait headed for our evening destination, Thurston Bay.  There was virtually no marine traffic the entire day.

 

We anchored Spirit at 1840 in light rain and calm seas, after a voyage of 69 NM.  After a dinner of roasted pork tenderloin scalloped potatoes and salad, we all retired early for the 0600 departure for our next stop, Allison Harbour.  We have covered nearly 185 NM since leaving Anacortes on May 6.

 

Spirit Log Day 3

 

Dawn arrived all too early for a tired crew, but the calm water and gentle sound of rain on the decks provided a soothing environment for sleep.  Setting the alarm for 0530, we were underway at 0545, some 15 minutes behind Rendezvous.  Riding the ebb tide up a calm Johnstone Strait in rain, dodging barges also riding the ebb tide, we turned into Blackney Pass and into Blackfish Sound.  Alas, no Orca’s to be seen, just an adverse current of 4 knots for several miles until we entered Queen Charlotte Strait.  By this time, the afternoon westerlies began to build and the ebb current created some short steep seas as we crossed over to the British Columbia Mainland side of the straits.  Passing Numas Islands the wind increased to 20-25 knots, the sun came out and we put a lot of spray over Spirit.  Threading our way behind points and islands to minimize the waves we finally decided to explore a different approach into Allison Harbour.  We could see several small passenger boats anchored behind some islands at the entrance and were pleasantly surprised by a nice potential anchorage for future trips.  The anchor was set in Allison Harbor ¼ mile behind Rendezvous at 1755, having logged 102.93 NM today, for a trip total of 289 NM, essentially halfway to Ketchikan.

 

 

 

Alaska 2021 Day 0 and Day 1

Spirit Log – Day 0 to 1

 

May 6, 2021

 

The first stage of our 2021 Alaska Journey was a positioning cruise to Roche Harbor in order to be close to the Canadian Border Services Agency (CBSA) marine reporting terminal at Van Isle Marina, Sidney.  Arriving at Roche Harbor we met up with the Selene 55 Rendezvous who are also headed to Alaska.  The cruise provided a good opportunity to test out the towing bridle for the Johnson’s 18 foot aluminum fishing boat.  We departed Anacortes Marina for the fuel dock at 0745 and after taking on 460 gallons of fuel departed Cap Sante at 0830.  Underway we tested out the towing bridle and the procedures for deploying and retrieving the fishing boat.

 

The towing bride worked fine but was more effective when we shortened the overall length by about 20 feet to 130 feet.

 

Arriving at Roche Harbor Marina at 1145, after a short 27.5 NM journey, our assigned slip was Slip 1 on the main guest dock, close for Miriam to get up to McMillin’s Restaurant where we were scheduled for a sendoff dinner with the crew from Rendezvous.  Dinner and adult beverages were excellent, but the summer prices were a shock compared to just weeks ago during the Selene Owner’s Rendezvous.  Likewise, the moorage prices between winter and summer went from $88 to $203 for the same boat.

	Following dinner we watched the traditional summertime Colors Ceremony as the sun slipped below the horizon in a blaze of light.

Later that evening Patrick finished scanning passports into the ArriveCan app, required for entry in Canada, along with our proposed quarantine plan for the mandatory 14 day period.  The app accepted the entries and we received a 0800 appointment at Van Isle Marina for the next morning.

 

May 7

 

Our departure from Roche Harbor was uneventful, but early, at 0545.  Heading the ten miles to Van Isle Marina we called in as we crossed the border and CBSA confirmed our time of 0800.  Arriving at the CBSA float we found a small sailboat with nobody aboard blocking most of the float.  There were also no CBSA officers.  We managed to place Spirit mostly on the dock, with about 20 feet of the stern hanging out into the fairway.  Fortunately there was little traffic, and the only way on and off was by climbing over the side rail.  The CBSA officers arrived about 0825, since they start work at 0800, but at the Victoria Airport.  The inspectors were courteous and professional and after a series of questions about alcohol, fruits and vegetables, cash, cannabis products and firearms, they performed a brief on-board inspection while we waited in the cockpit, leaving the boat neat.  By 0845, just twenty minutes later, we were on our way north, with the officers even helping with our lines.  Overall, this was a pleasant surprise after reading other crossing reports.

 

Since the process took less time than we expected, in consultation with the crew of Rendezvous, who were cleared shortly after us, we decided to try for slack water at Dodd Narrows, which shortened the distance to our first stop by a few miles.  We actually rode the last of the favorable current through the narrows, hitting speeds of 13 knots over the ground.

 

Entering the Straits of Georgia and threading our way between the bulk carriers waiting to load/unload east of Protection Island we found very favorable wind and sea conditions at we skirted the western boundary of the acoustic range WG (Whiskey Golf) which was not active this day.  Passing Ballenas Islands the normal brisk winds spilling over Vancouver Island near Qualicum Beach, reaching 33 knots and the associated beam seas for the last ten mile run into Tribune Bay on Hornby Island coated Spirit with salt.  As we approached the anchorage, the wind and seas abated and we anchored in 30 feet of water at 1844, having covered a total of 88 NM since leaving Roche Harbor.  Rendezvous anchored shortly after us.

 

The somewhat exhausted crew enjoyed Chicken Piccata prepared by Teri Johnson before retiring for the evening.

Introduction to our 2021 Voyage

 

Log of “Spirit”

May 2021

 

After no blog entries in several years, we are once again documenting our voyages.  Since our last posting in 2018, documenting our cruise from Iceland to Montreal on Seabourn Quest, following the route of the Vikings to Greenland and Newfoundland, we made another voyage twice around New Zealand on Seabourn Encore and then to SE Alaska in 2019.

 

In March of 2020, we headed to Buenos Aires to board Seabourn Quest for a 36 day expedition up the Amazon, ending up in Miami.  The Covid pandemic intervened and we barely escaped Buenos Aires before the airspace was closed.

 

Returning the Bellevue, we quarantined ourselves, and finally in June headed to Anacortes to spend time on Spirit, again isolating ourselves.  Summer 2020 was spent between Bellevue, Anacortes and a number of short cruises in the crowded San Juan Islands, since the Canada/USA border was closed to recreational traffic.  Unfortunately, in late August Miriam suffered a major stroke and the next 8 months have been spent in recovery and rehabilitation with the goal of transiting Canada to SE Alaska, an allowable activity.  Miriam was successful in achieving that goal, so the end of April marked the temporary end of rehab and therapy until we return to Bellevue in August.  We still have extensive exercises to perform while we are gone, but can take a break from the in-person therapy sessions.  We have moved our residence to Spirit in Anacortes as we prepare for departure.

 

Patrick & Miriam have made several short “test” cruises to Roche Harbor and are pleased with the results.

 

Spirit has been modified with additional handrails and a stern boarding ramp to make it easier to get around the boat.  Nonetheless, we will have good friends Harry and Teri Johnson aboard as crew for the next three months, so that Patrick can attend to Miriam at critical times without worrying about navigating Spirit.

 

Spirit will attempt to clear Canada customs the morning of May 7.

 

 

Route of the Vikings - Post 7

August 24, 2018

At Sea

Today we are headed to the final proven stop on the route of the Vikings.  We are at sea all day as we pass down the Labrador coast, still seeing the occasional iceberg.  The wind is 25-35 knots on our stern, but at least the temperatures are around 50 degrees.

August 25, 2018

L’Anse aux Meadows, Newfoundland, Canada

The Seabourn Quest pulled into a bay a few miles from the tender landing point and anchored shortly after 0700.  By 0830 we were ashore and headed first to Norstead, a re-creation of a failed Viking settlement from the time of Leif Erickson, predating Columbus in North America by 500 years.  The actual site was discovered in the 1960’s and the archeological evidence confirms the written sagas from the Viking era.

Norstead was built for the 2000 Millenial Celebration to avoid too much damage to the actual site from the tens of thousands who attended.

The actual site is now a Unesco World Heritage site and a Canadian National Park.  At the site, the foundations of the sod houses are still visible, but have been recovered with sod to preserve them for future generations.  Adjacent to the foundations is another recreation of what the site would have looked like 1000 years ago, complete with actors in period attire doing daily activities similar to what historians believe may have taken place.

Forge at L'Anse aux Meadows

Recreated settlement at Norstead

Inside the sod houses

Using Norse tools

Loom

Entrance into Sod Houses

Primitive Lathe

Sod House

Large Sod House, Contains Viking Longboat

Sod House Church

Cooking Flatbread

Looking over Archeological Site

Original Foundations recovered to protect the site

Inside Chapel

Leif Erikson Memorial from Seattle

The statue is near the tender landing

Building are filled with items that would have been from 1000 years ago

What a cooking fire and oven may have looked like 1000 years ago

Sculpture at L'Anse aux Meadows

At the small boat landing there is a donated copy of the Leif Erickson stature from Seattle, donated by various Seattle civic groups in 2013.

The site at L’Anse aux Meadows marks the end of the verifiable trail of the Viking presence in North America and is believed to have been used only as a gateway for other explorations, for which no firm evidence has been found elsewhere.  The expansion of easier trade routes in Europe is thought to be the reason the site was abandoned after only 50-70 years.

The archeological sites we saw in Greenland were abandoned in the 1400’s, probably due to the increasingly cold climate from the climate changes then occurring.

So ends the Route of the Vikings, but still more stops before we arrive in Montreal.

August 26, 2018
Red Bay, Labrador

After leaving L’Anse aux Meadows, the Seabourn Quest travelled only 45 nautical miles across Belle Isle Straits back into Labrador and anchored off the small town of Red Bay, only 230 residents.  This town was once a thriving Basque fishing and whaling village, but that is long gone.  There is no cell phone service and few other services.

At 0800 we departed on the tender and boarded a school bus for the lengthy trip west down the coast, passing several more small communities, over a combination of paved and gravel roads, both filled with potholes.  The school bus seats are very close together and the bus had poor suspension.  Nonetheless, after 75 minutes of bouncing, we arrived at one of the tallest lighthouses in Canada, the Point Amour light, which has been in continuous operation for 160 years.  The light is 132 feet above ground and 180 feet above sea level, easily illuminating the 9 mile wide Belle Isle Strait.

Original Light

Miriam at Point Amour

Point Amour Lighthouse

Wind Signal Flags

The lighthouse is one of four “Imperial” lighthouses, so-called because England provided the funds for construction, that provide navigational aids to Belle Isle Strait.  Belle Isle Strait is a shortcut between England and the Saint Lawrence, nearly 200 nautical miles shorter that the deeper water route via Cabot Straits on the south side of Nova Scotia.

We were able to climb the lighthouse and walk through many rooms of exhibits and enjoy some local desserts made from the Partridge Berry.

Returning to the ship we stopped several times for photo opportunities and at 1600 the Seabourn Quest weighed anchor and set sail for Corner Brook, Newfoundland, diagonally west across Belle Isle Strait and 190 nautical miles further towards our final destination in Montreal.

August 27, 2018

Seabourn Quest arrived at the pilot station about 0600 and was tied to the dock by 0730.  Our tour today was a bus tour to Gros Morne National Park.  The park is a combination of geological anomalies, wildlife, beaches, small villages, historic lighthouses, and most importantly, the barren tablelands.

Gros Morne

In front of tablelands

Barren Tablelands in Gros Morne

Lobster Head Bay Lighthouse

One of four "Imperial" Lighthouses on Belle Isle Strait

Moose Windvane in Gros Morn park

Lots of rosehips in Gros Morn

The tour took most of the day, and we were the last tour group back on board before our scheduled 1600 departure.  The departure was marred by a massive power blackout as we moved away from the dock, with the ship drifting powerless, the lights out, emergency hall lighting on and massive clouds of white smoke coming from the stacks.

The ship was close enough to the dock that they were able to throw heaving lines ashore and slowly winch the ship back to the dock.  The problem was resolved, apparently, and the ship finally departed Corner Brook at 1930.

August 28, 2018

Seabourn Quest continued into the Gulf of Saint Lawrence and entered the river about 1900.  Quebec City is some 200 miles inland, but the river is still very wide.  We spent several hours trial packing our luggage for the trip home on the 30th.  We also had the final lectures on “The Route of the Vikings”, this time looking at the Eastward expansion into the Caspian and Black Seas.

August 29, 2018

Arriving at the cruise ship terminal just below the Chateau Frontenac at the foot of the old part of Quebec City at 0730, we joined 17 fellow passengers whose travel agents were part of the Virtuoso Network.  After a driving tour of the old city we headed to Ilse d’Orleans, an island just downstream from the city.  Originally named Ilse d’Bacchus by Jacques Cartier in 1536, it was renamed by XXX after himself about 1540.

Visiting a Cassis farm and winery we tasted several concoctions of Cassis or Black Current wines and liqueurs.  Following a sightseeing tour of the eastern end of the island, we stopped at a restored dwelling dating from the 1500’s that belonged to a surgeon and landowner.  The host was in period costume and the house was well done.  Lunch was at a small restaurant “Moulin Laurent”, a converted mill, hence the “Moulin” or windmill in the name.  During lunch the skies opened up and we boarded our bus in the rain for our final stop of the day, the “Isle de Bacchus” winery where we tasted three varietals and toured the operation.

Approaching our dock in Quebec

Old City Streets

One of Quebec city gates

Cassis Farm

Winery

L'Isle de Bacchus Winery

Winery

Historic Mansion from 1500's

Inside Mansion

Moulin Laurent Restaurant

Heading back to the ship in the rain, we finalized our packing and met with friends in the Observation Bar for last drinks before departure and disembarkation the next morning.  The final “sailaway” party for the ship was moved to the Grand Salon because of the rain.  After being underway for several hours, the captain made an announcement that there was a main engine cooling issue that required immediate attention and that we would be anchoring in the river until it was rectified.  We were worried since we had an early flight and any delay would mean missing the flight on a holiday weekend with no backup flights.  After some time, the problem was rectified, no firm explanation given, and the Seabourn Quest raised the anchor and proceeded at full speed towards Montreal, with a one hour delay expected.

August 30, 2018

To our surprise, time was made up and we docked only 30 minutes late and we actually made our transportation 5 minutes early, only to run into traffic jams on the way to the airport.  Arriving at 0835, we checked in and found Patrick had been randomly selected for additional screening (searches) which took extra time.  However, we still arrived at the gate in time for our flight to Chicago and the connection to Seattle.  We had a 7 hour layover at O’Hare, but our passes to the “United Club” provided a place to wait with some food, drink and fewer crowds than in the main terminal.

The United flight to Seattle was uneventful and our trip ended with our arrival home just before midnight.

Route of the Vikings - Post 6

August 20, 2018

As expected, the winds and seas increased overnight as we approached our next wildlife stop, Akpatok Island, which has more than one million Brunnich’s Guillemots nesting and breeding in crevices in the 800 foot high limestone cliffs.  The island is also home to walruses and polar bears.

With the seas at 2-3 meters and sustained winds to 35 knots, the captain cancelled the planned zodiac expeditions due to safety considerations in launching, boarding and retrieving the zodiacs.  The 38 degree temperatures combined with the winds made for chilly viewing as the captain substituted scenic cruising several miles off the beach for 2 hours.  There were purportedly 2 polar bears on the beach, but our enlarged photographs showed only light colored limestone rocks which had fallen from the cliffs.  We headed for our next stop, Happy Valley-Goose Bay, two days away.  As we cruised back out of Hudson Strait the ship motions and shuddering increased for a while as the winds continued to build.

We were treated to two more impromptu lectures, one on Inuit art and one on killer whales and the impact on the arctic as the whales range further north in search of prey.  Finally, near evening we turned the corner back into Davis Strait and paralleled the Labrador Coast.

August 21, 2018

About 0200 we briefly watched the Northern Lights under clear skies.  Unfortunately, they were faint and not much color, impossible to photograph from a moving ship.

Dawn brought sunny skies and cool weather, with the coastline in the distance on the right and a steady parade of icebergs as we continued our journey.

There are three lectures today, one on ocean trash, one on Arctic Seabirds and finally, a presentation by Trevor Potts and his amazing recreation of Shackleton’s voyage in 1993 in a similar open boat with no liferafts or other support equipment.  The boat is now on permanent display in Cambridge, England.

August 22, 2018

The clear but cool weather we enjoyed yesterday has been replaced by wind, low clouds and rain as we continue to make our way to Happy Valley-Goose Bay.  We are out of Davis Strait and in the Labrador Sea.  Later in the day the rain was replaced by fog, so once again we hear the foghorn going off every two minutes.

The fog lifted as we approached the entrance into Lake Melville, a large tidal estuary where Happy Valley-Goose Bay is located.  The ship picked up a pilot and proceeded into the relatively narrow entrance.  As we transited the entrance we were treated to the sight of three Orca splashing alongside the ship.

By dinnertime, the rain returned and continued throughout the night.

August 23, 2018
Happy Valley-Goose Bay

Seabourn Quest continued the 100 nautical mile journey up Lake Melville overnight and docked at the Port of Goose Bay shortly before 0800.  Rain was expected to continue most of the day, with mild temperatures. The dock is about 5 miles from the Happy Valley town center and several miles from the airbase at Goose Bay.

We had selected a shore excursion to the town of North West River, which is literally at the end of the road system in Labrador.  Until a bridge was built in 1981 the only ways to get to North West River were by boat or a cable car spanning the river.

Trapper’s Monument

Cable Car from 1981

Hudson Bay Company Store Museum

The Northern Lights Store even sells bulletproof vests

Part of the Labrador Interpretive Center

Northern Lights Military Museum

Historic Fire Extinguisher in North West River

Our Inuit Host Joan McLean, for Lunch

Until the early 1940’s when the airbase was built, this was an Inuit barter economy town where people hunted and trapped and traded at the Hudson Bay Company store for items they could not gather for themselves.  Our first stop was at the Hudson Bay Company Store, now a museum, showing how the store looked and operated in the early 1900’s.

After wandering through the displays we walked for several blocks, some on a re-creation of the old boardwalk, to a little café where the local Inuit ladies had prepared a lunch of soup, sandwiches and desserts, all home cooked.  It was a delightful experience as we learned what life was like in the small town of 500 people from the people who actually live there.  After lunch we travelled by bus to the Labrador Interpretive Center, going down a road called “Airstrip Road” since it started as an emergency airstrip.

The interpretive center was well done and had lots of information on the different peoples who have lived in Labrador, going back 10,000 years, plus a special focus on the transition in recent years from a barter economy to a wage economy and the restoration of Inuit lands and rights.

North West River is also the location of a Canadian Discovery Channel reality TV show appropriately called “Last Stop Garage” and one of our guides has a brother who is in the show.

Following the tour at the Labrador Interpretive Center we were given a short detour to Happy Valley and the Northern Lights Military Museum, a private collection in the basement of the “Northern Lights” store (formerly a Hudson Bay Company Store) that stocked a little bit of everything from clothing, camping, guns and souvenirs.

Returning to the Seabourn Quest, the sun finally came out and many local inhabitants lined up in their cars to wave us off, sounding their horns while our Captain replied with the ship’s horn.