Guam to Chile Blog Post 15

 Blog Post 15 – Alexander Selkirk and Robinson Crusoe Islands

Seabourn Pursuit recovered the zodiacs from the dry landing at Anakena, Easter Island and as the sun set, we enjoyed a caviar sail-away celebration on the Patio, Deck 5.  Rounding the tip of Rapa Nui, Seabourn Pursuit set a course for the Juan Fernandez Islands, some 1600 nm southeasterly across the mostly deserted Pacific Ocean.  The prevailing SW swell caused an uncomfortable rolling motion even with the stabilizers deployed.

The four days at sea were filled with lectures and other fun activities.  We have heard many of the lectures already, but some were worth repeating.  The days also gave us time to review the photos and update the blog.  We also had an engine control room tour, very interesting to see how efficient new build ships are and the staggering number of regulations governing pollution control that are in place.

October 14, 2024 – Alexander Selkirk Island

In the pre-dawn darkness Seabourn Pursuit approached the north coast of Alexander Selkirk Island, named after the mariner who marooned himself on what is now known as Robinson Crusoe Island from 1704-1709. His 4+-year odyssey on the island provided the impetus and data for the 1709 novel “Robinson Crusoe” by Daniel Defoe, but with the location changed to the Caribbean.

Alexander Selkirk Island

Alexander Selkirk Island - SMS Titania scuttled
off the north coast

The expedition crew knew there was an undiscovered wreck somewhere on the north side of the island. Consulting with local fishermen, the location of the wreck, a German collier, the SMS Titania, scuttled in November 1914 as part of the war, was estimated. The exact location had never been confirmed, and the depths were too great (100 meters) for conventional scuba diving.

Last known photo of Titania being scuttled off the island

Based on local knowledge, the submersible headed down, and discovered the exact location of the wreck, which had not been visited or viewed since it was scuttled in November 1914.  Patrick was on the second dive to the wreck and viewed the wreckage, along with many endemic fish species. Two more dives took place, and less than 20 passengers got to view the wreck for the first time in 110 years.

Stern of Titania

Debris field

Stern Section

Following the dive, Zodiac tours were conducted and we got great views of Juan Fernandez fur seals, which were believed to be extinct until just a few years ago. The fur seals had numbered more than 4 million, but now have recovered with some 16,000 fur seals present in the archipelago.  

Juan Fernandez Fur Seals

The island has an active spiny lobster fishery.

Harvesting spiny lobster

October 15, 2024 – Robinson Crusoe Island

Once again, in pre-dawn darkness, Seabourn Pursuit approached the north shore of Robinson Crusoe Island and anchored in Cumberland Bay off the settlement of San Juan Bautista, a village of about 800 people who make their living primarily from fishing for spiny lobster, both on Robinson Crusoe Island and Alexander Selkirk Island.

Just off the town lies the wreck of the SMS Dresden, a German light cruiser which was scuttled after gunfire damage from HMS Glasgow during the First World War.  The Dresden was in neutral waters, but was fired upon anyway, and was scuttled to prevent capture by the British.  The location of the wreck is well known, but too deep for conventional scuba diving).

Debris field from SMS Dresden

Patrick was on the first dive on the wreck, which lies in 55-65 meters of water in the harbor.  Visibility was not that good, but we were able to view the entire port side of the wreck, which is lying on its side with one of the propellors and shaft clearly visible.

After the dive, a walk around town provided many photo opportunities, including a view of an unexploded 5 inch shell in the hillside close to town.

Unexploded shell from SMS Dresden

The archipelago is home to may endemic species of fish, plants and animals, including the Firecrown Hummingbird, a critically endangered species found only on Robinson Crusoe Island.  There are believed to be only 500-2000 breeding pairs left. Patrick was lucky to get a view of the Firecrown hummingbird while ashore for the Seabourn Pirates celebration which had local seafood (grilled fish, empanadas, lobster and octopus) and Pisco Sours, along with local music.

Firecrown Hummingbird

By 1630, the last zodiacs had arrived back at the ship and Seabourn Pursuit departed for San Antonio, Chile, some 360 nm away.  The ship anticipates arriving about 1800 on October 16, and we will disembark early in the morning on October 17, for a two day stay in Santiago.