Guam to Chile - Blog Post 12

 October 4, 2024 – Pitcairn Island

Arriving off Bounty Bay, Pitcairn Island, shortly before dawn, we were amazed by how steep and rocky the 3 miles by 1 mile island was. The terrain ranged from steep cliffs to lush jungles, with almost no flat areas. Adamstown, the principal housing area, is perched on a sloping area about 350 feet in altitude. The maximum elevation is over 1000 feet. The weather conditions at Pitcairn Island, off Bounty Bay, the only landing spot, were marginal, but doable, so some local officials, including the mayor came on board and gave us a briefing on activities ashore, and the lifestyle of the current 43 residents. The mayor is 7th generation Pitcairn Island, but spent time off island in Alaska. The only children left on the island are in boarding schools in New Zealand, so the local school is now closed. Life on Pitcairn is hard, income comes from selling handicrafts and honey to the occasional expedition vessel and wages from the New Zealand government. Most residents hold two or more jobs, but the rate of pay has not kept up with inflation, so expedition ships are welcome. Each resident is also responsible for their gardens and house maintenance and other community tasks. Pitcairn welcomes new residents, but the hard lifestyle is not attractive to many. The island is now 100 percent solar, with a backup generator and has installed Starlink, so they are well connected to the rest of the world.

Pitcairn Island from Google Earth

About 0930, we were cleared to begin landing. The swells were running up to 2 meters. The landing zone was awash in 6 inches of water and as the swell came down the side of the vessel, often the zodiac was well above the edge of the landing zone, which then had water knee deep. As the zodiac went down in the swell, the water cascaded out of the landing zone back into the zodiac. Needless to say, boarding the zodiac was an exciting evolution, as was the landing in Bounty Bay. One zodiac at a time entered the bay, nosed into the seawall and disgorged the passengers. Nearby is the boathouse containing the motorized longboats used to transfer supplies from the ship which provisions the island from New Zealand.

Longboats used for resupply

Looking down the Hill of Difficulty Road

The walk up the “hill of difficulty” road was steep and hot. The paved road is named appropriately. Once at the top the road leveled out, passes by the general store, open three hours per week, the post office and finally enters the “Town Square.” The anchor from HMAV Bounty has been recovered and is on display in front of the old community center. Fletcher Christian’s cave is clearly visible from the community center.

Road/Trail Map

General Store and Post Office

Bounty Anchor at Town Square

Fletcher Christian Cave

On the way to St. Pauls Pool

Seabourn Pursuit from trail to St. Pauls Pool

Up the Hill of Difficulty Road

Patrick joined a group hiking the 7 KM to St. Pauls Pool but decided to stop at the crest of the trail rather than lose all the 700-foot elevation descending to sea level and then have the hike back up in the hot, sunny conditions. After an easy walk back down the hill to the town square and then back down the “hill of difficulty” road, it was a short wait before taking a zodiac back to the ship, arriving at little after 1400 pm. The last zodiac boarded about 1600 pm, and by 1630 pm Seabourn Pursuit was underway for Ducie Island.