Monday, October 15, 2012

Departure Day From Kathmandu

Durbar Square in front of old palace

Temples in Durbar Square


Monk in Durbar Square


Monkey Temple from Durbar Square

Butchers Cart

Looking up at Monkey Temple with rest of trekking group

Monkey Temple

Prayer Wheels at Monkey Temple

Monkey Temple

Boudhanath Stupa

Mandala Painting

Crematorium on Bagmati River
Yesterday was a guided tour of Kathmandu, which took most of the day due to incredibly heavy traffic and even worse roads. We saw Durbar Square with all the temples. While there we were able to see the child goddess "Kumari", but no photos allowed. We will have to compare notes with Miriam from her visit in 1967on the area when we return.

The next major stop was the "Monkey Temple", or Swayambhunath, high on a hill overlooking the city then on to Boudhanath, a huge stupa,, not as big as the Borobudor in Indonesia, where we also watched artists painting Mandalas. All three sites are part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Kathmandu. We had lunch there, and I actually had chicken curry. The final stop was the Pashputi Nath where the city cremations are performed alongside the Bagmati River, similar to those alongside the Ganges. Here in Nepal, all except holy men are cremated in the same place, Hindu, Buddhist, Christian or athiest, it does not matter, it happens within 24 hours of death.

While we were there, at least 10 cremations were taking place in an area of incredible filth due to the monkeys and cow dung from the sacred cows wandering around freely. The water in the river was gray-brown and filled with garbage and floating flowers from the cremation ceremonies.

Getting back to the hotel we finally met our guide and he confirmed that we leave for Lukla at 1000 local time from the hotel (a 1200 flight). Flying conditions are reputed to be good, but the pucker factor is certainly increasing.

Sean and I have our duffels and day packs filled and weighed, as well as packing the stuff we are leaving behind, which is considerable.

From here until we return to Kathmandu on October 31 we will have only sporadic internet service, so probably no photos until then.

Sunday, October 14, 2012

Kathmandu Day 2 Cont'd

Last evening we were taken for a welcome dinner at a "traditional" Nepali restaurant with dancers performing both Hindu and Buddhist dances. Before the meal started we had to remove our shoes to enter the dining area, and our foreheads were marked with the red spots. Some of the dancers could have come directly from Bali. We sat on the floor on pads at low tables and were served some powerful rice wine to begin, followed by lentil soup, and an appetizer plate with dumplings, hot stuff and veggies, then a main course of rice with more hot curry type of things, both chicken (mostly bones) and pork, as well as more cooked spicy vegetables, followed by more lentil soup and then some sort of citrus dairy custard which I only tasted. Sean and I also had some Everest beer, which was pretty good. The rice was steaming hot!

Earlier in the day we were issued down bags and jackets. My jacket is bright yellow. The bags and jackets say "North Face", but could well be knockoffs. Both Sean and I have our bags down to the 15 KG weight limit, so we are good to go.

Trying Everest Beer

Nepali Appetizer Plate

Popcorn as an appetizer

Enjoying a mug of Everest Beer
Today is organized sightseeing in Kathmandu with the 3 other member of our trek.  More on that later.

Kathmandu Day 2


Vegetables at locaL market in Thamel District

More Thamel Street Scenes

More Thamel Scenery

Statue on Durbar Marq Square

Some of the horrendous traffic
After a night trying to recover from jet lag when we are nearly 11 hours ahead, we tried the breakfast provided with the room. The breakfast was pretty good, with a selection of both continental and Nepali/Indian dishes.
With a small amount of shopping left Sean and I headed back to Thamel and wandered around for several hours before trying to find Durbar Square on foot. We finally gave up and stopped for lunch at the Nanglo restaurant which offered a selection of Nepali, Indian and Continental cuisine. We then returned to the hotel to get ready for the 3 PM briefing for our group.

Saturday, October 13, 2012

Seattle to Kathmandu


 
The chauffeur limo arrived right on time and by 1545 both Sean and I were through security and into the lounge at the South Terminal.  Arriving at the business class lounge we sampled some Washington red wines before boarding the Emirates Airlines flight to Dubai, Delhi and then onwards to Kathmandu.  The flight departed right on time at 1730. The service is great and Sean and I enjoy fine wines, spirits and food as we head on a polar route north and then south to Dubai, nearly halfway around the world.  As we head North, Sean can see the Aurora Borealis from his window seat.

Emirates business class has nearly lay flat seats with optional mattress pads.  Each passenger has their own 17 inch LCD TV, reading lights and noise cancelling headphones)  After a delicious dinner (I had a seared tuna appetizer and a beef filet followed by a generous cheese platter while Sean had a Mediterranean Meze appetizer and a chicken curry followed by a chocolate dessert) we watched a movie (I fell asleep very quickly and don’t even remember what I was watching) and then slept for a few hours prior to the landing in Dubai.

Update, it is 3 am Seattle time and most people are still asleep.  The cabin is darkened under a starry sky (in the overhead panels).  After a few hours of sleep I woke up and had a snack and coffee, along with a Hershey’s special dark chocolate bar.  The lie flat beds are long, but not really flat, still at a small incline.  The crew puts mattress pads down under you, and one is quite comfortable. 

Update, breakfast was served about 1 ½ hours before landing in Dubai.  Both Sean and I had the full English breakfast which included scrambled eggs, broiled Portobello mushrooms and veal sausage, along with a fruit plate, Greek yogurt and assorted breads.

We landed on schedule at 7:00PM local time and after clearing security headed to the business class lounge to wait for about two hours before boarding the flight to Delhi.

Update; after a pleasant wait in the lounge, with some samples of Halal food, we boarded the Emirates flight to Delhi.  We definitely dropped down a notch in service and aircraft quality, but the flight was only about three hours in length and we landed without incident in Delhi.  Arriving at the international transfers desk at 3 AM local time we were greeted by an employee with our names and baggage claim numbers, ensuring the bags make the transfer.  After clearing security once again we headed for the Jet Airways shared lounge to spend 2 plus hours waiting for the last flight into Kathmandu.  It has now been 25 hours since the chauffeur car arrived at the house to begin the trip.

While in the lounge Sean checked for his visa photos and could not find them.  We were already headed to the gate for boarding and a check of the shops in the airport did not turn up any visa photo places.  Sean was walking by an open door and saw a fellow using a computer printer and we talked him into helping us.  Patrick took a picture of Sean with his iphone and mailed the photo to the fellow using the printer who then printed out several various sized black and white photos on plain paper.  After a mad dash to the airport gate we boarded buses which took us to the plane for the short flight to Kathmandu.  Breakfast on the plane was forgettable.  Landing in Kathmandu we filled out the visa forms and when Sean presented the large black & white photo and explained the situation, the officer just laughed and accepted the piece of paper.

Our bags arrived intact and after Customs we exited the airport, but no one from the company was around.  A few phone calls later we found that traffic had been heavy and he was still on his way.  After just a few minutes we were in the car and headed in heavy traffic to the Hotel Shanker.

Our first impressions of Kathmandu were of a dusty, smoggy, crowded and dirty city.  Narrow streets, often only partially paved, contained an incredible mix of dogs, the occasional cow, bicycle rickshaws, motorcycles and taxis all competing for the same stretch of road, with the pedestrians dodging everything and overlaid with a cacophony of horns.

By 0915 local time we had turned into what looked like an alley, but there instead was the Hotel Shanker, with landscaped front grounds, a pool and an impressive entrance portico.  The room was clean, with twin beds and we had just time to get a quick shower before we headed out on foot the few blocks to the Himalayan Glacier Trekking office in the Thamel District. We were joined by Eduardo from Brazil who had arrived a day earlier and led by one of the HGT guides.   The narrow streets were crowded with shops selling all kinds of trekking gear, food and souvenirs.
Sean at Hotel Shanker

Typical street in Thamel District

After a short meeting with Narayan Regmi, the managing director for HGT, we were issued our trekking duffel bags and a nice synthetic T-Shirt, given some packing tips and went over the schedule for the next several days.  Since the banks are closed on Saturday we also exchanged some money to have local currency.  We will be joined by two people from Canada who arrive later tonight, so will have a group of five trekkers.

With the meeting completed, our guide for the morning showed us where to get replacement visa photos, SIM cards and inexpensive cell phones for use in Nepal.  These phones only cost about 5 rupees  per minute (about 6 cents) rather than AT&T’s $1.99 per minute.

Sean and I headed back to the hotel for a much needed 2 hour nap and a trial packing of the duffels.  We will be leaving more than we expected here in storage to meet the total weight limits in the duffel of 15 kgs.

About 1630 we headed back on foot to the Thamel district to buy bottled water for the next few days and Sean also purchased a Nokia cell phone, which operates great.  By 1800 it was already mostly dark and we headed back to the hotel where we met up with Eduardo for dinner in the hotel restaurant.  By 2030 both Sean and I hit the “wall” from jet lag and headed back to the room for much needed sleep.

Wednesday, September 26, 2012

Post Cruise Activities


After the return to Anacortes preparations began for the next adventure for Patrick & Miriam, at least for Patrick!  In early October Patrick and son Sean leave for Kathmandu to participate in a 19 day trek to basecamp for Mount Everest at an elevation of up to 18,500 feet.  Meanwhile, “Spirit” needed maintenance from the cruise, including replacing seals and thrust bearings in the port stabilizer and installation of a new 5 bladed propeller from VEEM in Perth, Australia.

We were fortunate in being able to schedule time with Platypus Marine in Port Angeles and “Spirit” arrived on 1o September for a haulout.  Platypus has a travel lift capable of lifting 330 tons, so “Spirit” looked tiny at 50 tons as we were lifted out and put inside the building.  While at Platypus we also completed the last warranty repairs dealing with the drainage from the wheelhouse roof.

Miriam and Patrick took a few side trips to Hurricane Ridge and Lake Ozette while the work was performed, and sampled several restaurants in Port Angeles.


Coming out of the water at Platypus Marine

Heading into the building at Platypus Marine

New VEEM propellor

Preparing to re-launch
Spirit was re-launched on 17 September and returned to Anacortes the next day under sunny skies and calm seas.

Nepal - the next adventure


Preparation Begins
In early October Patrick and son Sean depart for a 19 day classic trek to the Base Camp for Mount Everest (also known as Sagarmantha or Chomolungma) where most of the summit expeditions are staged in the spring of each year.  They will fly from Seattle to Kathmandu via Dubai and Delhi and spend several days in both final trek preparations and the beginning of the altitude acclimatization process.  From Kathmandu they fly on a STOL aircraft to the Tenzing/Hillary airport at Lukla nearly 10,000 feet in elevation where the trekking begins.  The highest point of the trek is the summit of Kala Pattar at 18,552 feet where the best views of Mt. Everest (at an elevation of 29,028feet) can be seen.

The past month has been the beginning of the training process which will continue up to departure day.  Training consists both of cardio workouts and hiking with 20-25 pound backpacks at increasingly steep elevation gains.  Simulating the altitude is impossible, so Patrick and Sean are substituting weight and elevation changes during the training hikes to compensate.
Granite Mountain Summit

Sean at Stans Overlook - Rattlesnake Mountain

Base of Haystack, Mount Si

Panoram Point, Mount Rainier

Hiking cross snowfields at Panorama Point

Hurricane Hill, Olympic National Park

Snow Lake

So far they have hiked Granite Mountain, Pratt Lake, Mount Si, Snow Lake, West Tiger Mountain (many times), Rattlesnake Ridge and Cougar Mountain (several times).  Patrick has also hiked to Panorama Point on Mount Rainier, getting to an elevation of 7,000 feet, Mount Erie on Fidalgo Island and several other hikes in the Anacortes Community Forest and several hikes in Coal Creek Park in Bellevue (which has elevation gains of up to 1500 feet).  Patrick and Sean try to make each training hike from 6-9 miles with at least 1,000 feet of elevation gain on each hike.  This has been a great opportunity to experience all the great hiking and scenery right in our own back yard, especially in the I-90 corridor just a few minutes away.

Tuesday, August 7, 2012

2012 Summer Cruise Ends


August 5, 2012

After 99 days away from Anacortes, Spirit has arrived back at her homeport at Anacortes Marina.  Between Ganges and Anacortes we visited Echo Bay on Sucia Island, Garrison Bay on San Juan Island and Roche Harbor for the annual Roche Harbor Yacht Club “Colors Cruise”.

Spirit’s logbook shows we covered 3023 nautical miles since April 29, a shorter trip than usual.  We accumulated 450 hours on the main engine and 280 hours on the generator.  Although we had some mechanical failures, none were serious enough to stop the cruise.

Since Spirit was offloaded from the ship in Seattle in July 2009 she has travelled over 13,000 nautical miles including three trips to SE Alaska, with slightly more than 1800 hours on the main engine.

Even though it is many months away, planning has already begun for the 2013 cruise.