Shearwater to Bottleneck Inlet

We awoke this morning to wind and rain, with wind gusts to 30 knots, and wondered whether we were going to be able to leave the dock. However, the weather forecast predicted the winds would calm to 10 knots or so by noon, so about 1017 we and Sea Jay departed Shearwater, with a planned destination of Bottleneck Inlet. We both headed up Seaforth Channel in increasing seas but decreasing wind and by the time we got to Ivory Island Light we decided to go out in Milbanke Sound and directly up Finlayson Channel to our destination. We were shadowed by the Canadian Coast Guard vessel "Bartlett". The seas in Milbanke Sound were not too bad, running 5-8 feet on the port bow and then changing to beam as we rounded Ivory Island. The visibility had dropped to less than one mile, and we lost visual contact with Sea Jay and Bartlett as we headed across Milbanke Sound. We are the slow boat!

However, soon we were in protected waters with the seas on our stern. The seas continued to subside as we headed up Finlayson Channel. We were greeted by several Dall Porpoise and then later some whales as we headed North. The rain continued to increase as we entered Bottleneck Inlet at 1530, and by 1545 we were rafted alongside Sea Jay in a rainy but beautiful inlet with a stunning view to the still snow covered hills on Sarah Island. Although the rain was heavy, the wind was calm. The temperature continues to remind us of February, never getting above 50 degrees.

Dinner this evening was a potluck salad and pizza dinner with Jim and Cheryl (leftover from Shearwater) while we watched several episodes of season three of the "Big Bang Theory".

Today's run was 46 nautical miles, for a total of 440 nautical miles since leaving Anacortes.

North to Prince Rupert

No posts for the next 3-4 days as we head into Northern BC

Fury Cove to Shearwater via Namu

Spirit in Namu Harbor
Huddled around the fire pit before dinner

We understand this ship is a real bargain!

The buildings look good until you get close
The further building is inaccessible due to a rotting boardwalk

The managers house with a pool table

May 8, 2011

After a peaceful night at anchor rafted next to Sea Jay, Miriam and I got up and began Mother's Day with breakfast and then launched the tender and took a photo tour of Fury Cove in the sunshine. During the very early morning hours most of the boats anchored overnight had departed, leaving only the two of us and two other boats also rafted together.

After photos and re-stowing the tender, we have figured out that we have one or more failed house batteries that will have to be addressed when we get to either Shearwater or Ketchikan. However, with the generator, we can minimize the impact for a while.

Departing Fury Cove shortly after 1100, we motored out into Fitzhugh Sound and headed for Namu. Sea Jay followed us about one hour later. Namu is an abandoned cannery town, slowly fading back into ruins like Butedale, but they still have overnight moorage and a tour of the ruins. There is still a lot that is left, including the abandoned store, the pool table in the manager's house and lots of buildings slowly crumbling under the weight of winter snows and no maintenance. It will not be long before stops will be impossible due to the deterioration.

The caretakers, Pete and Teresa are really nice, and are working hard to keep enough going to attract visiting boats for a day or two. They built a fire in the shelter on the dock where we had dinner and drinks as the sun set. Even with the fire it was cold, winter is still here. There was one other sailboat from Sweden tied up to the dock.

Morning brought a departure for Shearwater where we hope to find an electrician to look at the battery situation.

The log now reads 368 nautical miles.

May 9, 2011

We said our goodbye's to the staff at Namu and headed for Shearwater, a run of only 26 nautical miles. Arriving shortly before noon we found the dock in sad shape, no power, no water and broken beams due to a 110 mph hurricane that devastated Shearwater in March. The entire guest dock broke free!

It is definitely early in the season. While waiting for a mechanic to arrive to check the battery bank we discovered loose and corroded terminals on the house batteries. The mechanic confirmed that was likely the problem, so two hours with emery cloth, contact cleaner and wrenches tightening all connections (all of them were loose to some degree!) has solved the immediate problem. The rain is falling again, but we are having fun and relieved we do not have a serious house battery bank issue!

A valuable lesson in the importance of keeping all bolted connections tight!

The log now reads 394 nautical miles.

Port McNeill to Fury Cove

Or, what were you doing on opening day of yachting season?? Spirit and Sea Jay rafted in Fury Cove
Interesting beach scenery


Driftwood at Fury Cove

A sunny afternoon, the sunset later was just OK

After a night of waking up at intervals (0130, 0400, 0700) to check the weather reports for Queen Charlotte Sound, and the buoy reports for "West Sea Otter" buoy, Jim Matheson and I initially decided to wait a day to cross Cape Caution. However, by 0800, the buoy reports were favorable and the weather reports indicated a brief window of opportunity to cross, so at 1030 we departed, with an intention of stopping at Bull Harbor and crossing on Sunday, Mother's Day. The weather started out cloudy, then partly cloudy, and finally clear and sunny as we approached Pine Island.

Jim took the lead, and when he got to Pine Island, the seas and wind were acceptable, so we decided to make the crossing on Saturday, continuing on to Fury Cove. Jim is somewhat faster, so he arrived before the wind picked up between Egg Island and Cape Calvert. There was a westerly swell of 5-8 feet, but long period, so no real problem. Even though the wind was above twenty knots for us, we also had no real problem, just a little spray across the bow. We saw our first large whale just off Pine Island, but only a glimpse.

The course we needed to keep put the swell nearly on the beam, but the stabilizers kept the motions acceptable, and we only needed to dodge the occasional log. That collision avoidance became more of a problem as the wind picked up.

Jim and Cheryl Matheson's boat is much faster, so when we reached Cape Calvert, we called on the radio and asked where they were. They had decided to stop in Fury Cove, which was a new location for us. Jim met us outside in his tender and guided us in where we rafted alongside of "Sea Jay". We were securely tied alongside Sea Jay at 1830, underway for just 8 hours. There were two other vessels already anchored in an absolutely beautiful sheltered bay with a view out across a spit covered in white sand looking out to Fitzhugh Sound. Later three more vessels that had been following us also entered and anchored.

It was now time for cocktails and appetizers on Spirit and then a delicious dinner of smoked ling cod on Sea Jay as we watched the sun set with a brilliant pink and clear sky. The cove is absolutely calm and quiet as we finally call it a night and get ready for a day of exploration tomorrow.

The log now stands at 342 nautical miles, for a day's run of 68 nautical miles

Dent Island to Port McNeill

Orca's near Green Point Rapids

The pod appeared to have at least 7 members

Putting on a show for us

Departing the scene

May 6, 2011

High slack water at Dent Rapids was predicted to be at 0649, an early wakeup. We had made arrangements the previous evening for a Continental breakfast at 0600. When we arrived at the dining room, the table was set, fruit smoothies in place, and fruit, cereal, juices and rolls set out, along with coffee, so we could sit right down. After eating more than we usually do in the morning, Pascal the cook came out and boxed up the bakery items, since they were just for us.

The rain had continued all night and leaving in the rain seems to be the rule this trip. Dent Rapids was indeed calm as we headed up Cordero Channel. Just prior to Green Point Rapids we encountered a pod of Orca, who put on a show for us as we drifted by. We continued up Cordero Channel and then turned up Wellbore Channel through Whirlpool Rapids, past Forward Harbor and finally into Johnstone Strait. The leftover bakery items provided a mid-morning snack underway.

Johnstone was initially calm, but the wind continued to build from the Southeast as we headed for Port McNeill. We were boosted by the current most of the way, only encountering adverse currents the last few miles past Alert Bay and into Port McNeill, where we docked at 1530.

Jim & Cheryl Matheson on "Sea Jay" were already there and helped with lines. The wind and rain continued and the temperature was only in the 40's. It felt more like February than May. We joined a whole group of boats waiting for favorable weather to continue north.

The weather report offers some hope we can cross Queen Charlotte Sound and Cape Caution by Monday, before the next front approaches from the Gulf of Alaska.

We now have 274 nautical miles on the log.

Dent Island - Chapter Two

Getting Ready for Dinner at Dent Island Lodge
The eagle getting his appetizer on the fly!

After getting Spirit squared away, phone calls made for spare parts, filling the water tanks, washing off the salt, Miriam and Patrick headed to dinner at the Dent Island Lodge. Justin, the general manager had caught spot prawns and also had some fish scraps for the resident bald eagle. Patrick was fortunate enough to catch a photo of the eagle approaching the food before dinner.

Dinner was great, as usual. The appetizers included oysters on the half shell, teriyaki salmon skewers, grilled spot prawns, hummus, cherry tomatoes skewered with mozarella cheese, etc. We enjoyed those with perfectly made martinis as we chatted with the five other guests at the lodge bar.

The first course for the dinner were perfectly seared scallops served on canadian bacon and arugula with a fresh salsa. The main course was either a stuffed pork tenderloin or a cajun halibut, both served with unique salads and vegetables from the local area. We had one of each and shared (sort of). The servings were ample and will make up lunch tomorrow.

Dessert and coffee consisted of a Bailey's creme brulee or a chocolate volcanoe cake or cheesecake. We tried the first two and they were both delicious, and harmful to the waistline.

The chef this year is "Pascal", who was the sous chef the last part of last year. We are looking forward to stopping on our return to sample the Rapids Grill, which will be doing a Tapas style menu.

Nanaimo to Desolation Sound and Dent Island

Waterfall in Teakerne Arm, Desolation Sound



Our anchor "rabbit" in Prideaux Haven




Another beautiful evening in Prideaux Haven, Desolation Sound

May 3, 2011

The wind decreased overnight and we left Nanaimo's Cameron Island Marina at 0645 under partly cloudy skies. The weather buoy in Georgia Straits was favorable, only 10 knot winds and 2 foot seas. Three other vessels heading north beat us out, Ursa Major, Facing West and Island Spirit. Matheson's on Sea Jay left later.

The military exercise area "WG" or Whiskey Golf was closed, so we could cut across the area rather than go around. As we headed north, we changed our minds about staying a day in Pender Harbor and instead headed past Ballenas Island and west of Lasqueti and Texada Islands. We had forgotten that the winds are always brisk off of Qualicum Beach and today was no exception, briefly building to 18 knots with seas to 3 feet. However, we were through it in one hour and the seas returned to 1 foot and winds of 10 knots. Passing the north end of Texada Island, we headed back to the mainland shore, passing the town of Lund, up Thulin Passage and into Desolation Sound. We decided to return to our favorite anchorage in Prideaux Haven, where we were the only vessel anchored. By 1630 the anchor was set, just under 10 hours from Nanaimo.

Later that evening, which was a sunny reprise of last year's trip north, several other vessels came in and anchored in Melanie Cove, about ½ mile away.

After the Selene Rendezvous and the long day, we were ready to just spend a few days unwinding at anchor, so no gourmet dinner.

Since leaving Anacortes we have logged 160 nautical miles, 77 of those yesterday.

May 4, 2011 – Prideaux Haven

The winds remained calm overnight and we awoke to partly sunny skies and a very calm anchorage. The day was spent checking various boat systems, including a blown fuse on one of the battery chargers. All systems now seem to be operating normally. Light rain began in the evening.

May 5, 2011 – Dent Island

We pulled the anchor out of the mud of Prideaux Haven and departed at 0705 in light rain, but no wind. After a detour to see the waterfall in Teakerne Arm, we slowly worked our way up Lewis and Calm Channels to Yuculta Rapids. We were a little early, but went through anyway to avoid a large tug and barge approaching Gillard Passage from the other direction, who we could see on AIS. The maximum current we encountered was a little over 4 knots.

We docked at Dent Island Resort at 1200, and found out we were the first visiting boat of the season, although they have had a number of fly-in guests. There are 5 of those guests here tonight. We will depart at morning high slack tide (0700) and hope to make Port McNeill in one long day, but may stop at Port Harvey depending on the weather.

The log now shows 195 nautical miles since we departed Anacortes.