Guam to Chile Blog Post 15

 Blog Post 15 – Alexander Selkirk and Robinson Crusoe Islands

Seabourn Pursuit recovered the zodiacs from the dry landing at Anakena, Easter Island and as the sun set, we enjoyed a caviar sail-away celebration on the Patio, Deck 5.  Rounding the tip of Rapa Nui, Seabourn Pursuit set a course for the Juan Fernandez Islands, some 1600 nm southeasterly across the mostly deserted Pacific Ocean.  The prevailing SW swell caused an uncomfortable rolling motion even with the stabilizers deployed.

The four days at sea were filled with lectures and other fun activities.  We have heard many of the lectures already, but some were worth repeating.  The days also gave us time to review the photos and update the blog.  We also had an engine control room tour, very interesting to see how efficient new build ships are and the staggering number of regulations governing pollution control that are in place.

October 14, 2024 – Alexander Selkirk Island

In the pre-dawn darkness Seabourn Pursuit approached the north coast of Alexander Selkirk Island, named after the mariner who marooned himself on what is now known as Robinson Crusoe Island from 1704-1709. His 4+-year odyssey on the island provided the impetus and data for the 1709 novel “Robinson Crusoe” by Daniel Defoe, but with the location changed to the Caribbean.

Alexander Selkirk Island

Alexander Selkirk Island - SMS Titania scuttled
off the north coast

The expedition crew knew there was an undiscovered wreck somewhere on the north side of the island. Consulting with local fishermen, the location of the wreck, a German collier, the SMS Titania, scuttled in November 1914 as part of the war, was estimated. The exact location had never been confirmed, and the depths were too great (100 meters) for conventional scuba diving.

Last known photo of Titania being scuttled off the island

Based on local knowledge, the submersible headed down, and discovered the exact location of the wreck, which had not been visited or viewed since it was scuttled in November 1914.  Patrick was on the second dive to the wreck and viewed the wreckage, along with many endemic fish species. Two more dives took place, and less than 20 passengers got to view the wreck for the first time in 110 years.

Stern of Titania

Debris field

Stern Section

Following the dive, Zodiac tours were conducted and we got great views of Juan Fernandez fur seals, which were believed to be extinct until just a few years ago. The fur seals had numbered more than 4 million, but now have recovered with some 16,000 fur seals present in the archipelago.  

Juan Fernandez Fur Seals

The island has an active spiny lobster fishery.

Harvesting spiny lobster

October 15, 2024 – Robinson Crusoe Island

Once again, in pre-dawn darkness, Seabourn Pursuit approached the north shore of Robinson Crusoe Island and anchored in Cumberland Bay off the settlement of San Juan Bautista, a village of about 800 people who make their living primarily from fishing for spiny lobster, both on Robinson Crusoe Island and Alexander Selkirk Island.

Just off the town lies the wreck of the SMS Dresden, a German light cruiser which was scuttled after gunfire damage from HMS Glasgow during the First World War.  The Dresden was in neutral waters, but was fired upon anyway, and was scuttled to prevent capture by the British.  The location of the wreck is well known, but too deep for conventional scuba diving).

Debris field from SMS Dresden

Patrick was on the first dive on the wreck, which lies in 55-65 meters of water in the harbor.  Visibility was not that good, but we were able to view the entire port side of the wreck, which is lying on its side with one of the propellors and shaft clearly visible.

After the dive, a walk around town provided many photo opportunities, including a view of an unexploded 5 inch shell in the hillside close to town.

Unexploded shell from SMS Dresden

The archipelago is home to may endemic species of fish, plants and animals, including the Firecrown Hummingbird, a critically endangered species found only on Robinson Crusoe Island.  There are believed to be only 500-2000 breeding pairs left. Patrick was lucky to get a view of the Firecrown hummingbird while ashore for the Seabourn Pirates celebration which had local seafood (grilled fish, empanadas, lobster and octopus) and Pisco Sours, along with local music.

Firecrown Hummingbird

By 1630, the last zodiacs had arrived back at the ship and Seabourn Pursuit departed for San Antonio, Chile, some 360 nm away.  The ship anticipates arriving about 1800 on October 16, and we will disembark early in the morning on October 17, for a two day stay in Santiago.

 

Guam to Chile - Blog Post 14 Easter Island

October 8-9, 2024

Mysterious statues, a fallen civilization, what happened to the inhabitants of Rapa Nui, located in one of the most remote areas of the Pacific Ocean. Archeological evidence suggests the island was deliberately settled about 1000 AD by Polynesians arriving from the Tahiti area.

Evidence suggests there were about 15 royal families who erected the statues called Moai in tribute to dead royal family members whose spirits inhabit the Moai and would continue to watch over and protect their families. It is believed the statues were constructed from 1250 onwards, tapering off by 1500.  All the statues look inward towards the people rather than out to sea, except for seven Moai at Ahu Akivi, well inland, oriented outwards to welcome the king.

The population continued to grow, reaching an estimated 17,000 just prior to the collapse. By this time, natural resources were severely impacted to build the hundreds of Moai.  Most of the Moai were carved at the “quarry,” taking 4 distinct steps before being transported to the Ahu, or sacred platforms. There are still more than 400 Moai in various stages of construction in the quarry in additions to the hundreds erected and then toppled. Many Moai were just abandoned, face down, alongside the roads. Once at the Ahu’s, the eyes were finished and the Moai came to life.

Sometime around the early 1700’s, disaster struck. Either the last tree was cut down, or social strife caused the society to enter a rapid period of warfare and strife, with the population going down to less than 3,000 by the time the first European explorers arrived.

Jacob Roggeveen “discovered” the island in 1722 and some Moai were still standing at that time.

Slavery by the Portugese further reduced the indigenous population to about 111 by the early 1800’s.

The first toppled Moai was re-erected in 1956, and restoration of many more continues to this day. The re-erected Moai are missing the eyes in most cases, and the configuration of the Moai is sometimes a guess due to scattering and effects of Tsunami’s on the toppled statues. The Moai’s at the quarry have been partially excavated, but generally remain in their original construction locations.

Some research suggests the Moai construction stopped with the rise of the “Birdmen” cult.  Legend suggests that the warrior ruling class used the competition to collect seabird eggs from Motu Iti off the coast from the Rano Kau volcanic crater at Orongo to select the winning warrior family as rulers for the coming year. The structures at Orongo are well preserved, perched on the rim of the volcanic crater, which has a lake in the center.

 Arriving off the south coast of Easter Island or Rapa Nui, before daylight, Seabourn Pursuit took up position offshore from the main town of Hanga Roa. After Chilean customs and immigration clearance, two zodiacs were launched to inspect the potential landing sites.  The seas did not look favorable, with 6-8 foot swells. The first potential site was unusable, with waves breaking across the entire width of the entrance. The second site had a channel between the breaking waves suitable for zodiac operations, but not ship’s tender operations.

Easter Island with sites visited

Providing the best lee possible, Seabourn Pursuit launched more zodiacs and the lengthy process of ferrying passengers ashore began. Each zodiac had an Easter Island pilot on board guiding the zodiac through the safe channel into the small harbor. At the boarding door on the ship, one had to stand in water in the landing zone and wait until the zodiac was level with the side and then step on board before the zodiac plunged back down.

Eventually the first groups made it ashore and the buses departed for our included shore excursion. The first stop was at Ahu Akahanga, the ruins of a native village, with the boat shaped polynesian houses, circular farming enclosures, stone chicken coops and an Ahu(stone platform for the Moai). Here the Moai have been left toppled face first towards the shore.  Driving around the island we passed numerous free range horses and cattle.

Tumbled Moai at Ahu Akahanga

Moais are all face down

Many Free Range Horses

Traditional boat shaped house

Stone crop circles

The second stop was the quarry at Rano Raraku, with more than 400 Moai in various stages of construction. The Moai are mostly constructed of a relatively soft volcanic material called Tuff, compressed volcanic ash easily worked with basalt tools. The relatively soft stone has eroded features over the centuries. The few constructed of basalt are better preserved. The top knots are from a different area and composed of red volcanic stone called scoria. The Rano Rakaru quarry is on the side of a volcanic cone, with quarrying on both the outside and inside of the volcanic cone.

Partially completed Moai’s at Ranu Raraku

Many are still buried

Usually the head is 1/3 the height

The only Moai with legs sitting down

The largest Moai is only partially constructed and is 21 meters in length. Moving the Moai is still somewhat of a mystery, with several theories, including “walking” them in an upright position with control lines around the head to tilt and swivel the Moai forward.

Partially completed 21 meter Moai

Archeological evidence suggests erection of the Moai at the Ahu was easily accomplished by wedging the Moai with levers and stones by relatively few workers. The Moai continued to get larger with time, with some weighing more than 80 tons.

The third stop was at the restored Ahu at Tongariki, with 15 Moai erected on the Ahu. This was a difficult restoration because of the scattering of the Moai from the 1992 Tsunami.

Each Face is unique

Restored Moai at Ahu Tongariki

Only one topnot could be positively identified

The final stop for the day was at Anakena, on the north side of the Island, with the only sand beach on Easter Island, used as a royal residence. The Ahu Nau Nau contained seven Moai on one platform and one Moai on Ahu Ature Huke, a separate platform.

Ahu Ature Huki

Ahu Nau Nau - Anakena Beach

Returning to the landing site we had another exciting ride through the breaking waves back to the ship. After lunch, Patrick headed back into Hanga Roa for a town walk, with not much to see except for sculptures along the water between town and the harbor.

Overnight the ship relocated to the north side of the island, with calmer waters. The next morning Seabourn Pursuit returned to Hanga Roa, but the seas had increased overnight and the port was closed. The ship reversed direction and positioned off Anakena where we had calm zodiac rides into a dry landing. We later found out that a local fisherman ignored the closed harbor, capsized and was injured. His boat was a total loss.

The tour this morning started at Orongo, on the rim of the Rano Kau crater and finished at Ahu Tahai, where there were three separate Ahu’s, with one Moai having reconstructed eyes.

Slate construction Orongo Village

Orongo Village is on crater rim

Ranu Kau crater

Motu Iti where “Birdmen” captured eggs

Ranu Kau Crater rim with lake in center

Ahu Tahai - in town

Moai has eyes

Eyes are coral and obsidian

Returning to the ship, there was a “Caviar Sailaway” as Seabourn Pursuit recovered the zodiacs and headed for Alexander Selkirk Island, 4 days away.  Following photo from Kevin Novak who was able to stay overnight on Easter Island and captured this amazing sunrise.

Sunrise at Tongariki

Guam to Chile Blog Post 13 - Ducie Island

October 5, 2024 - Ducie Island

After departing Pitcairn Island, Seabourn Pursuit continued east to Ducie Island, easternmost of the Pitcairn Islands. Ducie Island is an uninhabited atoll with pristine beaches and crystal clear waters ideal for snorkeling if weather conditions permit. Ducie Island is also the home to several seabird species, since no land predators interrupt the breeding. Arriving at 1230 pm, weather conditions were such that both snorkeling and submersible operations were cancelled. The ship made a lee so zodiacs could be safely launched in the 2-3 meter swells and 15 knot winds. Zodiac tours in three waves according to our assigned color groups commenced.  With the seas, zodiacs capacity was either 6 or 8 guests depending on size, instead of the normal 10-14 guests.

Ducie Island Map

View of atoll from Seabourn Pursuit

Zodiacs waiting for the Humpback Whale pod

Numerous seabird species were flying around the ship and a pod of humpback whales put on a show between the ship and the beach.

 

Humpback Breaching

Seabirds at Ducie

Whale and bird photos are courtesy of Kevin Novak, one of the guests with a better camera and timing than ourselves.

By 1630 pm the zodiacs were retrieved and Seabourn Pursuit began the 2-day voyage to Easter Island, even further east and south of Ducie Island.  We enjoyed a delicious alfresco Italian dinner on the aft patio deck featuring veal osso buco while watching the Moon and Venus create a shimmering reflection in the wake as they slide below the horizon.