Guam to Chile - Blog Post 14 Easter Island

October 8-9, 2024

Mysterious statues, a fallen civilization, what happened to the inhabitants of Rapa Nui, located in one of the most remote areas of the Pacific Ocean. Archeological evidence suggests the island was deliberately settled about 1000 AD by Polynesians arriving from the Tahiti area.

Evidence suggests there were about 15 royal families who erected the statues called Moai in tribute to dead royal family members whose spirits inhabit the Moai and would continue to watch over and protect their families. It is believed the statues were constructed from 1250 onwards, tapering off by 1500.  All the statues look inward towards the people rather than out to sea, except for seven Moai at Ahu Akivi, well inland, oriented outwards to welcome the king.

The population continued to grow, reaching an estimated 17,000 just prior to the collapse. By this time, natural resources were severely impacted to build the hundreds of Moai.  Most of the Moai were carved at the “quarry,” taking 4 distinct steps before being transported to the Ahu, or sacred platforms. There are still more than 400 Moai in various stages of construction in the quarry in additions to the hundreds erected and then toppled. Many Moai were just abandoned, face down, alongside the roads. Once at the Ahu’s, the eyes were finished and the Moai came to life.

Sometime around the early 1700’s, disaster struck. Either the last tree was cut down, or social strife caused the society to enter a rapid period of warfare and strife, with the population going down to less than 3,000 by the time the first European explorers arrived.

Jacob Roggeveen “discovered” the island in 1722 and some Moai were still standing at that time.

Slavery by the Portugese further reduced the indigenous population to about 111 by the early 1800’s.

The first toppled Moai was re-erected in 1956, and restoration of many more continues to this day. The re-erected Moai are missing the eyes in most cases, and the configuration of the Moai is sometimes a guess due to scattering and effects of Tsunami’s on the toppled statues. The Moai’s at the quarry have been partially excavated, but generally remain in their original construction locations.

Some research suggests the Moai construction stopped with the rise of the “Birdmen” cult.  Legend suggests that the warrior ruling class used the competition to collect seabird eggs from Motu Iti off the coast from the Rano Kau volcanic crater at Orongo to select the winning warrior family as rulers for the coming year. The structures at Orongo are well preserved, perched on the rim of the volcanic crater, which has a lake in the center.

 Arriving off the south coast of Easter Island or Rapa Nui, before daylight, Seabourn Pursuit took up position offshore from the main town of Hanga Roa. After Chilean customs and immigration clearance, two zodiacs were launched to inspect the potential landing sites.  The seas did not look favorable, with 6-8 foot swells. The first potential site was unusable, with waves breaking across the entire width of the entrance. The second site had a channel between the breaking waves suitable for zodiac operations, but not ship’s tender operations.

Easter Island with sites visited

Providing the best lee possible, Seabourn Pursuit launched more zodiacs and the lengthy process of ferrying passengers ashore began. Each zodiac had an Easter Island pilot on board guiding the zodiac through the safe channel into the small harbor. At the boarding door on the ship, one had to stand in water in the landing zone and wait until the zodiac was level with the side and then step on board before the zodiac plunged back down.

Eventually the first groups made it ashore and the buses departed for our included shore excursion. The first stop was at Ahu Akahanga, the ruins of a native village, with the boat shaped polynesian houses, circular farming enclosures, stone chicken coops and an Ahu(stone platform for the Moai). Here the Moai have been left toppled face first towards the shore.  Driving around the island we passed numerous free range horses and cattle.

Tumbled Moai at Ahu Akahanga

Moais are all face down

Many Free Range Horses

Traditional boat shaped house

Stone crop circles

The second stop was the quarry at Rano Raraku, with more than 400 Moai in various stages of construction. The Moai are mostly constructed of a relatively soft volcanic material called Tuff, compressed volcanic ash easily worked with basalt tools. The relatively soft stone has eroded features over the centuries. The few constructed of basalt are better preserved. The top knots are from a different area and composed of red volcanic stone called scoria. The Rano Rakaru quarry is on the side of a volcanic cone, with quarrying on both the outside and inside of the volcanic cone.

Partially completed Moai’s at Ranu Raraku

Many are still buried

Usually the head is 1/3 the height

The only Moai with legs sitting down

The largest Moai is only partially constructed and is 21 meters in length. Moving the Moai is still somewhat of a mystery, with several theories, including “walking” them in an upright position with control lines around the head to tilt and swivel the Moai forward.

Partially completed 21 meter Moai

Archeological evidence suggests erection of the Moai at the Ahu was easily accomplished by wedging the Moai with levers and stones by relatively few workers. The Moai continued to get larger with time, with some weighing more than 80 tons.

The third stop was at the restored Ahu at Tongariki, with 15 Moai erected on the Ahu. This was a difficult restoration because of the scattering of the Moai from the 1992 Tsunami.

Each Face is unique

Restored Moai at Ahu Tongariki

Only one topnot could be positively identified

The final stop for the day was at Anakena, on the north side of the Island, with the only sand beach on Easter Island, used as a royal residence. The Ahu Nau Nau contained seven Moai on one platform and one Moai on Ahu Ature Huke, a separate platform.

Ahu Ature Huki

Ahu Nau Nau - Anakena Beach

Returning to the landing site we had another exciting ride through the breaking waves back to the ship. After lunch, Patrick headed back into Hanga Roa for a town walk, with not much to see except for sculptures along the water between town and the harbor.

Overnight the ship relocated to the north side of the island, with calmer waters. The next morning Seabourn Pursuit returned to Hanga Roa, but the seas had increased overnight and the port was closed. The ship reversed direction and positioned off Anakena where we had calm zodiac rides into a dry landing. We later found out that a local fisherman ignored the closed harbor, capsized and was injured. His boat was a total loss.

The tour this morning started at Orongo, on the rim of the Rano Kau crater and finished at Ahu Tahai, where there were three separate Ahu’s, with one Moai having reconstructed eyes.

Slate construction Orongo Village

Orongo Village is on crater rim

Ranu Kau crater

Motu Iti where “Birdmen” captured eggs

Ranu Kau Crater rim with lake in center

Ahu Tahai - in town

Moai has eyes

Eyes are coral and obsidian

Returning to the ship, there was a “Caviar Sailaway” as Seabourn Pursuit recovered the zodiacs and headed for Alexander Selkirk Island, 4 days away.  Following photo from Kevin Novak who was able to stay overnight on Easter Island and captured this amazing sunrise.

Sunrise at Tongariki

Guam to Chile Blog Post 13 - Ducie Island

October 5, 2024 - Ducie Island

After departing Pitcairn Island, Seabourn Pursuit continued east to Ducie Island, easternmost of the Pitcairn Islands. Ducie Island is an uninhabited atoll with pristine beaches and crystal clear waters ideal for snorkeling if weather conditions permit. Ducie Island is also the home to several seabird species, since no land predators interrupt the breeding. Arriving at 1230 pm, weather conditions were such that both snorkeling and submersible operations were cancelled. The ship made a lee so zodiacs could be safely launched in the 2-3 meter swells and 15 knot winds. Zodiac tours in three waves according to our assigned color groups commenced.  With the seas, zodiacs capacity was either 6 or 8 guests depending on size, instead of the normal 10-14 guests.

Ducie Island Map

View of atoll from Seabourn Pursuit

Zodiacs waiting for the Humpback Whale pod

Numerous seabird species were flying around the ship and a pod of humpback whales put on a show between the ship and the beach.

 

Humpback Breaching

Seabirds at Ducie

Whale and bird photos are courtesy of Kevin Novak, one of the guests with a better camera and timing than ourselves.

By 1630 pm the zodiacs were retrieved and Seabourn Pursuit began the 2-day voyage to Easter Island, even further east and south of Ducie Island.  We enjoyed a delicious alfresco Italian dinner on the aft patio deck featuring veal osso buco while watching the Moon and Venus create a shimmering reflection in the wake as they slide below the horizon.

  

 

Guam to Chile - Blog Post 12

 October 4, 2024 – Pitcairn Island

Arriving off Bounty Bay, Pitcairn Island, shortly before dawn, we were amazed by how steep and rocky the 3 miles by 1 mile island was. The terrain ranged from steep cliffs to lush jungles, with almost no flat areas. Adamstown, the principal housing area, is perched on a sloping area about 350 feet in altitude. The maximum elevation is over 1000 feet. The weather conditions at Pitcairn Island, off Bounty Bay, the only landing spot, were marginal, but doable, so some local officials, including the mayor came on board and gave us a briefing on activities ashore, and the lifestyle of the current 43 residents. The mayor is 7th generation Pitcairn Island, but spent time off island in Alaska. The only children left on the island are in boarding schools in New Zealand, so the local school is now closed. Life on Pitcairn is hard, income comes from selling handicrafts and honey to the occasional expedition vessel and wages from the New Zealand government. Most residents hold two or more jobs, but the rate of pay has not kept up with inflation, so expedition ships are welcome. Each resident is also responsible for their gardens and house maintenance and other community tasks. Pitcairn welcomes new residents, but the hard lifestyle is not attractive to many. The island is now 100 percent solar, with a backup generator and has installed Starlink, so they are well connected to the rest of the world.

Pitcairn Island from Google Earth

About 0930, we were cleared to begin landing. The swells were running up to 2 meters. The landing zone was awash in 6 inches of water and as the swell came down the side of the vessel, often the zodiac was well above the edge of the landing zone, which then had water knee deep. As the zodiac went down in the swell, the water cascaded out of the landing zone back into the zodiac. Needless to say, boarding the zodiac was an exciting evolution, as was the landing in Bounty Bay. One zodiac at a time entered the bay, nosed into the seawall and disgorged the passengers. Nearby is the boathouse containing the motorized longboats used to transfer supplies from the ship which provisions the island from New Zealand.

Longboats used for resupply

Looking down the Hill of Difficulty Road

The walk up the “hill of difficulty” road was steep and hot. The paved road is named appropriately. Once at the top the road leveled out, passes by the general store, open three hours per week, the post office and finally enters the “Town Square.” The anchor from HMAV Bounty has been recovered and is on display in front of the old community center. Fletcher Christian’s cave is clearly visible from the community center.

Road/Trail Map

General Store and Post Office

Bounty Anchor at Town Square

Fletcher Christian Cave

On the way to St. Pauls Pool

Seabourn Pursuit from trail to St. Pauls Pool

Up the Hill of Difficulty Road

Patrick joined a group hiking the 7 KM to St. Pauls Pool but decided to stop at the crest of the trail rather than lose all the 700-foot elevation descending to sea level and then have the hike back up in the hot, sunny conditions. After an easy walk back down the hill to the town square and then back down the “hill of difficulty” road, it was a short wait before taking a zodiac back to the ship, arriving at little after 1400 pm. The last zodiac boarded about 1600 pm, and by 1630 pm Seabourn Pursuit was underway for Ducie Island.

 

Guam to Chile - Blog Post 11

September 28, 2024 – Papeete

This morning we departed on an “included” tour of the so-called undiscovered Tahiti.  The tour included stops at botanical gardens, fern caves, a new Tahitian cultural museum, and a private home’s botanical gardens followed by refreshing juice drinks in the owner’s gazebo.  The tour returned to the ship about 1400 and we joined in the “sail-away” party as Seabourn Pursuit’s lines were cast off and we exited the harbor with the sun low in the sky.

Captain Cook’s Anchor

Sculpture at the Tahitian Museum

Tike at the Marae Entrance

Marae - sacred ground

Tiki’s scattered all over

Another Tiki

Part of central market

Parrot fish for sale in central market

Ginger at botanical garden

View from Gazebo at private home

Fern Grotto

Tahitian Cultural Museum

Ancient dugout canoe

Departing Papeete

The ship headed east for Anaa, a beautiful atoll in the Tuamotu group in French Polynesia.

September 29, 2024 – Anaa

Seabourn Pursuit took up station off the small harbor at Anaa and most guests headed ashore in the Zodiacs for a dry landing followed by a short walk along the paved road to the inner side of the lagoon, where the village is located. There are about 450 residents on the atoll. Patrick also went ashore, but via a kayak excursion, which also ended up the village.

Anaa Atoll

Anaa landing zone

The village had a large open-air pavilion by the beach where the performances by the village residents were performed. Following the dances, there were large varieties of local foods set out for tasting, as well as delicious drinking coconuts. There was also a large pavilion with a variety of local handicrafts, including black pearls.

Dancers at Anaa

Proa in Anaa Lagoon

Local Church on Anaa

Inside the local church - light fixtures are shell

Local Dancers on Anaa

Patrick’s kayaking group headed back, but by now the tide had gone out enough that they had to walk and drag the kayaks several places to get back to the landing sites. There are several small entrances into the lagoon, but the currents are too high for safe kayaking.  Even the route we took, in very shallow water with occasional groundings, had a fair amount of current until well past the pass.

September 30, 2024 – Tahanea

Tahanea is a large uninhabited atoll and nature preserve. The atoll measures 30 miles long with a maximum width of 15 miles and a total area of 210 square miles. There are three navigable passes for smaller vessels, and there was one sailboat anchored just south of the pass where Seabourn Pursuit took up position.

The activities offered here were snorkeling, zodiac tours and kayaking. Patrick did the kayaking tour in the crystal clear waters where reef sharks were sighted and Julie took a Zodiac tour. No one from the ship was allowed to land, but that apparently did not apply the the people and dog on the sailboat, who were wandering around. There was a crude shelter with a mooring buoy in front, but other than the shelter, only birds occupied the atoll.

Kayaking in Tahanea Lagoon

Following our stop, Seabourn Pursuit reversed course and headed back north to Fakarava atoll to drop the French Polynesia officials and clear the ship out of French Polynesia before heading back southeast towards Pitcairn Islands, a British Overseas Territory. One of those Islands, Pitcairn, is famous for in part in the “Mutiny on the Bounty.”

October 1-3, at Sea

The voyage to Pitcairn Islands is about 860 NM from Fakarava Atoll, which will take three days. The seas were moderate, but with a beam swell which made the ride somewhat uncomfortable. The sea days were filled with lectures and other activities, as we prepared for the Pitcairn Island visit. We will also visit Ducie Island, an atoll part of the Pitcairn Islands group. There are four islands forming the group, and the group has been designated a Marine Protected Area, now the fourth largest in the world. The designation will severely limit commercial exploitation and preserve the unique ecology of the islands.