Pruth Bay to Ketchikan

May 12, 2016 – Pruth Bay to Bottleneck Inlet

The sun was shining and the wind had shifted to NE overnight.  We pulled the anchor from the good holding and headed up Meay Channel, across Hakai Pass and into Ward Passage.  Exiting into Fitz Hugh Sound via Nalau Passage we bucked a 1.5 to 2.0 knot ebb current all the way to Lama Passasge.  Entering Lama Passage the current was with us and we quickly passed New Bella Bella, bypassing Shearwater. We photographed Dryad Point lighthouse on the way, even though we have seen it many times.   Heading into Seaforth Channel we passed Ivory Point Light at 1505 and entered Milbanke Sound, which only had a low westerly swell.

Catch up photo of dandelion at Shoal Bay

Shoal Bay was full of photo ops.

Eagle outside of Port McNeill

Dryad Point Lighthouse

As we passed Vancouver Rock the winds built from the NE to more than 30 knots.  At 1615 we turned the corner into Finlayson Channel and headed for Bottleneck Inlet, our destination for the evening.  We passed through bands of wind to 32 knots, but found a calm patch just outside the entrance to Bottleneck Inlet.  Pulling the Grady White alongside we entered the narrow and shallow entrance and anchored in 32 feet of water just past the only other boat.  There was no wind inside and glassy water.

We watched the season finale of “Big Bang Theory”, since the TV satellite dish was still picking up local Seattle stations.  Miriam had prepared some stuffed bell peppers for dinner and we enjoyed them in the 70 degree temperatures in the inlet.

May 13, 2016 – Bottleneck Inlet to Lowe Inlet

We pulled the anchor from the sticky mud in Bottleneck Inlet at 0558, following the only other boat out of the inlet and headed for Hiekish Narrows to minimize the effects of the ebb tide.  The currents can run up to 4 knots on large tides, which occur this time of year.

As we entered Princess Royal Channel we decided, based on the morning weather forecast, to bypass our traditional stop in Khutze Inlet, giving up the crabbing, and instead pushing north to hopefully cross Dixon Entrance on Sunday before a predicted SE gale comes in on Monday afternoon.

Heading up Graham Reach and into Butedale Passage we diverted slightly to see the state of Butedale.  Every year more of the old cannery buildings fall in and the docks are now reputedly closed to visitors.  We did see that an aluminum gangway is now back in place between the docks and shore.

Butedale continues to deteriorate

Leaving Butedale behind we continued into Fraser Reach.  The calm water was covered in streaks of yellow pollen, reminding us of our 2010 trip, the first on the Selene.  The snow on the hills was nearly gone and there were only the larger waterfalls lining the shores, not the constant waterfalls we saw in 2012.

Rounding Kingcome Point at noon we entered MacKay Reach and finally picked up a small boost from the ebb tide, and the wind picked up from the north to 25 knots.  Exiting Princess Royal Channel and MacKay Reach we entered Wright Sound at Point Cumming and we set a direct course for the entrance to Grenville Channel.  The gusty northerly winds were replaced by constant NE winds at 10-15 knots.  Since we departed Bottleneck Inlet this morning the only other vessels we have seen are “Aquila”, who was also anchored in Bottleneck, and one water taxi heading to Hartley Bay.

Spirit headed up Grenville Channel and after some discussion, the decision was made to stop at Lowe Inlet and anchor in Nettle Basin.  There was one other boat anchored, “Seaducktress”, from Nordlund, Washington.  We had met Peter and Glenda for the first time in 2007 and then occasionally since then.  Miriam baked an apple pie and we all gathered on Spirit for dessert with pie and ice cream and a time of catching up.  By the time twilight arrived there were five boats anchored in Nettle Basin.  The evening ended early since both vessels plan on getting underway at 0500.

First Brown Bear on the beach

Verney Falls in Nettle Basin

Our view up Grenville Channel

May 14, 2016 – Lowe Inlet to Foggy Bay

Spirit did not make the 0500 departure, although Seaducktress was already gone at 0500.  We departed Lowe Inlet at 0550 as the sun was rising and headed back into Grenville Channel, riding the flood tide towards the top of Grenville.  The winds were calm and the skies mostly sunny as we powered towards Foggy Bay, some 104 nautical miles away.

Exiting Grenville Channel, Spirit proceeded up Arthur Passage and turning slightly west headed into Malacca Passage past Lawyer Islands and Client Reefs out into Chatham Sound.  There was now a low swell left over from last night’s winds and rippled wind chop on top.  Spirit is part of a parade of US boats headed for Ketchikan.

At the top of Grenville we regained cell phone coverage and checked in with US Customs in Ketchikan, receiving permission to stop in Foggy Bay this evening.

The further we got out into Chatham Sound the larger the swells became, growing to 4-6 feet, but very short period.  Since there was very little wind, even though Spirit pitched a lot the windows stayed dry and few waves came over the bow.  The closer we got to Green Island and Holliday Passage the calmer it got and as we passed Holliday Island light at 1527 the seas became glassy smooth.  Still riding a favorable current we set a direct course for Tree Point, in Alaska.

Green Island Lighthouse - last view of BC

Tree Point Light, First landfall in Alaska

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Totems in Foggy Bay

Spirit anchored with Seaducktress in Foggy Bay

Sun setting over our last day of good weather

Spirit crossed the US/Canada boundary at 1506 AKDT (we set the clocks back one hour for Alaska) and at 1720 we were anchored in Foggy Bay.  We enjoyed the warm sunny weather and watched the sun set through the gap in the trees looking out into Dixon Entrance.  We have covered 103 nautical miles today and 342 nautical miles since leaving Port McNeill 4 days ago.

May 15, 2016 – Foggy Bay to Ketchikan

With daylight time it was light by 0330, but we waited until 0550 to leave Foggy Bay.  The conditions had certainly changed since the previous evening.  It was overcast, the wind was blowing 15-20 and there were 4-6 foot waves on our quarter as we headed up Revillagigedo Channel past Mary Island and Hog Rocks towards Ketchikan.  The seas calmed down, but the wind persisted as Spirit approached Tongass Narrows.  We were cleared into the US by phone with our Nexus cards and then stopped at Petromarine for fuel.  Fuel is basically the same price as in Anacortes.

Topping off the fuel tanks we called for a moorage assignment and by 1115 we were tied up in Bar Harbor in the middle of a rain squall, a typical Ketchikan summer day.

Spirit has logged 718 nautical miles since Anacortes and 380 nautical miles since Port McNeill on May 11.

We will stay in Ketchikan until the gale passes and we get our spare parts from Seattle.  We plan on departing either May 18 or May 19.